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Understanding these relationships is essential for achieving desired hair colors and correcting color mishaps. You can neutralize certain tones by going across the color wheel to see what counteracts that color. In different types of hair color charts, you’ll see blonde in various shades. Neutral colors aren’t on the color wheel, but still apply to color wheel hair theory.
What does the color wheel have to do with hair color?

For example, if blonde hair is yellow and warm but you want it to be icy and cool, you’d look to see which color is opposite yellow on the Color Circle. Then, a little bit of violet would be added to the hair formula to counteract the yellow tones. Gorgeous intermediate shades like red-orange, yellow-orange, yellow-green, blue-green, blue-purple, and red-purple. These are the colors that add spice and everything nice to your hair.
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You can also use Brilliant Blonde if the hair is very very dark hair or has color build-up. Intense Pearl Blonde 100V and Pearl Blonde toners 10V are both purple based, for example. Any Ugly Duckling color or toner with a "V" (meaning "Violet") or the number "2" (meaning "Purple") is a purple based color. They are blue and violet based and will do an effective job of color neutralization.
The Hair Color Theory
A skilled color specialist knows which side of the hair color wheel is best for each client. Warm hair colors are better for clients with warm skin tones, while those with cool skin tones look beautiful with cool hair colors. This prevents that washed-out, pale look and instead will result in a more flattering shade.
There are various tools colorists might use to find the perfect blend for every client, with the most common being a color chart or a book of hair swatches. You’ve got the full lowdown on the Lightening Curve and the Color Circle. Now, let’s look at how they correlate with a numbering system to create a hair color formula. Consider this your chance to demystify the salon experience, and your opportunity to 'try on' a hair color before you fully commit.
How Complementary Colors on the Color Wheel Work
Typically I add in 25%, 50%, or 75% of the correcting pigment, depending on how much of the tone I am looking to neutralize. If there is only a slight red hue, then I don’t need to add much and can get by with 25% Ash. But if the color is bright red, I would add 75% Ash to the Neutral tone. In addition to these natural colors, green, blue, and violet colors will look great on cool-toned individuals who want to rock a vivid hue.
The hair color wheel is a tool used to teach the science of Color Theory. It’s composed of 12 colors, with cool shades such as purple, blue, and green on the left, and warm ones like orange, red, and yellow on the right. It also has tertiary (or blended) colors like red-orange and blue-green.
Choose the Right Toner
These colors can be changed in tone to have a different appearance. The purple pigments, when mixed with the blue, will help cancel out the yellow and only the blue tones will be visible. The first step in color correcting for brassy, orange, or yellow hair is to understand the underlying level of the hair. The theory of complementary colors states that colors that are opposite to each other on the color wheel will cancel each other out.
Underlying pigment
Although they won’t damage your hair, they can pretty drying. And coating your hair with too much toner can be hard to remove. They are particularly good for blonde and bleached hair which can easily become too warm and brassy.
Blue is directly opposite to orange on the color wheel, making it effective at counteracting orange tones. The hair color wheel isn’t just a tool for professional colorists—it’s a resource that anyone can use, no matter their level of experience with hair coloring. Whether you’re a seasoned stylist or a brave DIYer looking to switch up your look at home, the hair color wheel offers a myriad of benefits. Color correction is a term used in hair coloring to refer to the process of adjusting, changing, or neutralizing hair color that didn’t turn out as planned or has faded over time. It can be as simple as toning down brassy blondes or as complex as restoring natural color after multiple hair color treatments.
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Developers are hydrogen peroxide liquid that works as an oxidizing agent for the hair color. The varying levels of developers depend on different hair color lines or manufacturers that make several options for their hair color products. Every number in the numbering system is divided by a stroke. The figure before the stroke denotes the depth (how light or dark the hair is), and the figure after indicates what color you’ll see.
Blue is across from orange on the hair color wheel, so a blue shampoo will help keep orangey-toned hair fresh-hued and brass-free. There’s no natural hair color wheel, but there is a natural hair color chart that you can easily find online. Usually, people with medium to dark brown hair end up having red tones, even if they don’t bleach. This is because the underlying pigment in these shades of brown is red. If you want your hair to be the main attraction, you can go for unnatural hair colors. These are fashion or fantasy colors mostly found in semi-permanent dyes.
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